Saturday 11 July 2015

STEAMBOATN' on the Mighty MISSISSIPPI






The Rivermen Series was published in the Cambridge Reporter (formerly known as the Galt Reporter). There have been many contributions between "The Rivermen Series and Clive Warrington it's editor. This newspaper has been a victim of publishing wars and take overs and is no longer published.
There will be articles added to the Rivermen Researcher from the Rivermen Series or other publishing companies.  The Harrodsburg Herald, Kentucky. The Southern Horsemen, Meridian Mississippi,  and others.

All Photographs and video clips have been produced by myself while travelling the Mississippi River between Memphis, Greenseville, Mississippi, and New Orleans




Travel
                                     10B The Cambridge Reporter Wednesday Feb 3, 1999


    The Delta Queen was the vessel I chose to travel from New Orleans to Memphis .





STEAMBOATN' on the mighty MISSISSIPPI



While researching Cambridge history, I was fortunate to find this article in the January 1860 edition of the Dumfries Reformer.



I have decided to share it with you. It is nice example of some of the wonderful and descriptive scenes of the Mississippi River. A scene which remains with us today,although altered by new social ans river transportation practices.



The Mississippi River by night is a scene of startling interest and has within it magical splendour.



Hundreds of lights glancing in different directions, from villages, towns, farms, plantations, along the shore line, and from magnificent “floating palaces ”- steamers that frequently appear as moving mountains of light and flame so brilliant are these enormous leviathan, illuminated, inside and outside. Indeed steamer after steamer, sweeping, sounding, thundering ablaze with thousands of lights which cause brilliant reflections upon the rolling water,arriving with so many sparks within an Indian's fire.



Some of these are so marvellously and dazzlingly lighted, they really look like Aladdin Palaces on fire, set scurrying and dashing down the stream. Idelighted too in seeing the twinkling in the numerous cottages and homesteads here and there, while large wood fires litvupon the banks. These bonfires, I believe, are usually are usually signals for the steamers to stop and take aboard passengers, goods, and animals.



I have witnessed some of these wonderful traditions while travelling aboard the American Queen a great Mississippi steamer. My traditional steamboatn' experience acme about from the time I reached the levee at Memphis. As I left my baggage with the purser, he said thatvour departure would be delayed. This did not bother me! In fact my research into this era dictated folly of of trying to estimate the timing of arrivals and departures.



Departures were consistently late from trying to secure extra commerce. This was something both river trades had in common. It happened on the Mississippi and it happened on the Grand River too. This experience lends a sense that this too was part of reliving the steamboat tradition.











I found the food, the Southern Hospitality, and the riverlore made up for any inconvenience the delay may have caused.



Although, my excitement had been escalating for some time prior to boarding this decked out and well stacked vessel painted in festive colours of red white and blue. I decided that a sojourn in downtown Memphis would appease my adventurous appetite, until the Queen was ready to to leave. Therefore, I walked into the heart of the city.



I was amazed at the city's cleanliness and beauty. Near the center of town I found a restaurant called the “Yellow Rose”. It was bright yellow, quaintly decorated, with fresh cut, long stemmed; yellow roses placed on each table gave the restaurant a traditional touch of elegance. From my table, I could see the hand-painted yellow roses on the walls. At first a diner could thing that there was to much yellow. However, the complimentary colours worked well. And the food! Oh the food! It was in my opinion the best. The feast included traditional corn bread, Southern Catfish, Hush-puppies, Black-eye peas, and more. Desert was “Out” I was full already.



During this sojourn, I took numerous photographs. When it was time to depart, I returned to the levee, where I crossed the boarding stage, and onto the American Queen. Immediately. I ascended the Grand Stair case into the hall that led to three distinct rooms:to the right the ladies parlour, immediately in-front of me was the Mark Twain Gallery. On the left was the Gentleman's card room. It was in this room that I met our pilot Mr. Harold Shultz. I listened quietly as he told of his experiences piloting the Queen and the many vessels he guided along the rivers he worked. Another man entered the Card Room. He was introduced as Charles Reed, the American Queen's resident “Riverlorian”. (a moniker created by the steamboat company)



His manner was eloquent, his knowledge of river-lore exceptional. I especially enjoyed his wit. We all got along famously. I re-entered the Mark Twain Gallery en route th the Grand Saloon. I was surprised, It was massive, and gave the illusion of an area three times it's actual size. This illusion continued as I passed through the hall way to my room. This vessel had the grand appearance of length. It is 400 feet from the Bow to it's Sternwheel. The entire vessel gave you a sense of de je vue. It left you feeling that you were a cartoon character entering a sultan's tent. Indeed ! Bugs bunny would have made you feel welcomed. The Queen's staff excelled in this service also. What a piece of marine architecture this vessel has come to be!



The Mark Twain Gallery is unique. On the port-side (left) there are numerous models of famous boats, including the J.M White. The formal dining room is designed identical; with the exception the fret work is like the rest of the vessel; constructed of steel. However, the cabinetry is magnificent ! Fine furniture, made of the finest hard-woods, book cases contain a collection of assorted hard-bound books for our reading pleasure. It was a common occurrence to see somebody reading on the finely upholstered, antique couches and chairs. Near the grand piano, also found in the Mark Twain Gallery, you are welcomed to listen to the melodic tones as the musician tickles the ivories. At times this gallery is silent for the exception of a purring sound which is simultaneously accompanied with the feeling of gentle vibrations. At times you would believe there were cats contently sleeping in the room.



If you chose a livelier social atmosphere,you'll find it in the above the engine room in the bar. Here you can drink hearty and be merry. There is always a chance to join in on a chorus of Billy Joel's “Piano Man” with the robust moving water splashing over the paddle wheel. Our calliope player was also our “PIANO MAN” and entertained us in the Saloon; just located above the engine room,



There are so many genres of music to hear you are often encouraged to dance in the Grand Saloon . Get involved in games, or listen to various entertainers of your choice. There was a group named the Should you like Pat Boone he was also entertaining on my particular cruise. After the night life had worn me down. It was close to 3:30 in the darkness of predawn; I decided to walk the length of the American Queen stopping to watch the big red paddle-wheel turn over, and over again. These were wonderful experience to capture and reminisce over.


Lastly in the Grand Saloon other speciality orators such as Ethnomusicologist Melony Bernum who presented her research on the movement of Black gospel music from the deep southern states into northern cities like Chicago. As a talented speaker and musician, she quickly captured the audiences interest. Later we met and spent almost an hour in conversation, sharing our similar interests in music research and her experience connected with religious music. Come Sunday a traditional church service was hosted by the crew. I stayed up to watch the sun rive over the Queen . The older vistas have changed some. Many of the passenger boats are no longer working the river. Therefore, the motorized towing vessels have taken the place of paddle-wheel steam tows. There remain several steam-boats that remain working on the waterways of north America. Some continue to operate on steam. Most excursion vessels run on Diesel as a source of fuel. My return to Memphis was not Quite as eventful for me, but from the Queen I could see others on shore awaiting their opportunity to cruise the Great Mississippi River. I believe what an experience it would have been to be expectantly awaiting any of the memorable riverboats of the River Ouse (Grand River 19th century). Here the scene was filled with other steamers such at the steamers Red Jacket, Grand River Queen , Brantford, the Dunnville, along with a host of other River boats. Awaiting them would be numerous horse conveyances like Carriages, Drays, Stages coming from as far away towns of Hamilton, Galt, Stratford and London. Were any of your family members living in Upper Canada, Canada West, during the hay day of the steamer. Keep a close watch over any of the Steamboat blogs as I will be incorporating video clips and photographs of my River-boat journeys


Please send a comments about any navigation experience you are willing to share.






The Rivermen Series Revised
Larry Devine

Newest Press Release- The  American Queen Steamboat Company located in 
Memphis Tennesee. US.A.       Delta Queen Steamboat Company, Kimmswick, Missouri, USA